Wood carving tooles

Wood Carving: How To Sharpen Straight Chisels ??

If you're going to be a true wood carver, you really should learn how to sharpen your own tools. And straight chisels are the easiest carving tools to sharpen. Once you know how to do it correctly, you could sharpen any other straight-edged tool in your collection.

If you're just starting out as a wood carver, you'll quickly discover how wood chisels are used all the time. There are many kinds, many sizes. They'll need periodic sharpening and it's good to be able to do them yourself. It isn't very fitting to have to bring your tools to a professional sharpener whenever they become dull. You lose money, you lose time. And best of all, straight chisels are the easiest wood carving tools to sharpen.
Straight chisels can be sharpened in two steps. The first is to get the tool's edge to sharpness, and the second is to strop that edge to silky smoothness.
æ Straight Chisel Sharpening. This is sharpening for straight square chisels and it's very simple. Start with a coarse grade sharpening (honing or whetting) stone. Make the shaft vertical with the edge touching the stone. Slowly lower the end facing up until the edge's surface touches the wood. Stop right there. With the beveled face flush on the stone, you have achieved the correct sharpening angle.
While holding the chisel's beveled face flush against the stone, place your index finger on the top of the beveled surface for better control. Pull the stone towards you, away from the edge. Do this 10-20 times and then check for the burr. A burr is a feather-like sliver of wire that will come off the chisel's edge when you have achieved absolute sharpness. You slide your finger across the edge (never lengthwise!) and a burr will feel like sand or grit on your edge. If there isn't a burr, do another set of strokes until you've correctly raised it. If the tool has a second bevel, sharpen it as you have just done with the first bevel. Sharpen until you've correctly raised the burr.
After sharpness has been achieved with a coarse stone, move to a fine grade stone. You can do this with just one fine grade stone or with a succession of increasingly fine grade stones. Perform the sharpening strokes in the same way until you get a burr. If you've got a second bevel, do the same until a burr is raised. Be very sure that you've raised a burr along the entire length of the chisel's edge, and on both sides. If you won't make sure, just stop what you're doing and go watch television. I'm not kidding. If you're going to sharpen, do it well or not at all. It will affect how well you're able to carve. (If that doesn't matter to you, really, then what are you doing?)
There are a couple of different stroke techniques that are commonly used when sharpening straight chisels. With your index finger on the top of the beveled surface as you grip the shaft, place the fingers of your other hand on top of the first. Instead of pulling the tool towards you, you run it in circles. If not that, you can also push the tool sideways in one direction and then sideways in the other. There is no one specific method. Experiment and see which technique is best for you. I like the stroke that pulls away from the edge best. It's the simplest way to raise a burr and then detect it.
æ Skewed Chisel Sharpening. Skewed chisels are just a bit different from straight chisels. A skewed chisel's edge is at a slanted angle, a skewed angle, and joins the side of the chisel head at an acute angle of less than 90 degrees.
Sharpening a skewed chisel is done in just the same way as sharpening a straight chisel. There is only one difference. The skewed edge needs to be made parallel to the forward edge of the sharpening stone. Or the edge can be made perpendicular to the side edge of the sharpening stone. Either way works fine. Just be consistent if there is a second bevel.
æ Chisel Stropping. Your well-sharpened chisel now has burrs all along its edge. Well done. Stropping will remove those burrs and all other micro-bits still clinging.
You've got a couple of choices when it comes to stropping. First choice: You can use a free strap of leather to strop your edge in one direction and then the other. Lay the beveled face of your chisel's edge flat on the strap and pull away from the edge, parallel to the length-wise surface of the strap. Near the end of the strap, lift the chisel and turn it over. Place the opposite face of the chisel's edge flat on the strap. Pull in the opposite direction, away from the edge and parallel to the strap surface. Back and forth and back and forth until your edge is silky smooth.
The second choice for stropping your chisel edge is to use a stropping board, also referred to as a honing board. This could be in the form of a flat rectangular board, a paddle, a wooden bench or it could be one you make yourself. The technique for using a stropping board is just the same as the technique used on a free leather strap.
Leather strops and stropping boards are usually combined with a polishing compound. It facilitates the stropping process and makes carving much easier. It may be in the form of a liquid, a paste, powder or even a solid block that fits in the palm of your hand.
Stropping is a very important step in sharpening and shouldn't be dismissed. Think of it as you using a chisel with a dirty edge. It surely doesn't perform as well as a clean edge. And because it's dirty, using it will cause you to have to sharpen it much quicker than you usually would. So strop, and strop well. Your carving will be better for it.
Beginners need to be very careful when stropping. As novices in this art, the edge is often rounded instead of being polished smooth. That's because the edge isn't truly flat during the stropping process. A secondary bevel will be produced that thickens with each sharpening. Eventually, the only way to save the edge is to remake it. That would be a great loss in time and effort. Pay close attention.
When you've trained those hands to do a good job, you'll be able to sharpen any straight chiselArticle Search, any skewed chisel in your tool collection. That's a lot you already know about sharpening carving tools. Keep it up. Just be so careful and watch out for secondary bevels.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR


Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world. If you would like to find out about - Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them - Sharpening Other Edges (e.g. Lawn Mower Blades, Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes) Find it here at http://www.MakeKnivesSharp.com .
 
 
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Wood Carving: How To Choose The Right Tools ??

 

If you're going to be a wood carver and not just a whittler, you'll need to select a number of tools. You could use just a handful and work with small projects. Or you could use a variety, including power tools, to work on really large projects. There's just no way around it. So what are the right tools for wood carving?

If you're going to be a wood carver and not just a whittler, you'll need to select a number of tools. There's just no way around it. So what are the right tools for wood carving?
Tools for Sharpening. Before the carving tools, it seems appropriate that tools for sharpening them should come first. After all, first we sharpen and then we carve.
At the very minimum, you should have a sharpening stone and a strop. The sharpening stone is used to get your edges to sharpness. Many sharpening stones come in different shapes and in different sizes. Some are very accommodating to the typically short blade lengths of wood carving blade edges. There are diamond coated slipstones that work very well to sharpen an edge. Some sharpening stones can even be found on a key chain or as small as a credit card. So very convenient.
A well-sharpened edge will have a burr and micro-bits of metal still clinging to it. A strop can easily remove all of these. This is very important in wood carving. Anything added to the edge will only slow your progress. You've got to get everything off. If you prefer, you could use a honing compound or a honing board to smooth out your edges.
If you're really serious about becoming a wood carver, it is highly recommended that you learn how to sharpen and strop a knife. Once you've learned that, you'll also be able to sharpen most other carving edges. The need for smooth sharp edges is a constant in wood carving. When you can achieve them, you'll be worlds ahead of the rest. No kidding.
Tools for Shaping. Each type of carving tool that is meant to shape wood has a specific function. At the very minimum, you should have carving knives, wood chisels, wood gouges, wood rasps and rifflers, a mallet and maybe even a power drill.
æ Carving knives. This is your most basic of all carving tools and there are many kinds. There are straight-edged knives, skewed knives, bent knives, chip knives, detail knives, special pocket knives modified for carving and folding knives with lockable blades. And these aren't all of them. There are even micro-knives or micro-tool kits, if you'd like.
It's a matter of functionality. Each edge is target specific. When you've learned what each type of knife can do, and you've considered the carving project ahead of you, then you'll know which knives are best for that job. The best knives used for one specific task may not be the same knives that are best for another. That's why you've got choices.
æ Wood chisels. Chisels can be found with a bevel on only one side of the edge or they can be found with a double-sided beveled edge. The head may be slanted or square in shape. They may even be bent forward or backward. You'll have quite a selection.
æ Wood gouges. This is one of the most used tools in wood carving. There are many shapes and sizes. Some are very short and stout while others extend for a few inches with an extended blade edge. You'll probably end up with several kinds. That's not a problem. Surely, you'll use each one at some time or another.
æ Wood Rasps or Riffler files. It's easy to get confused when you're shopping around for these tools. Not all merchants agree. Really. Some stores call it a rasp, others will call it a riffler. And yet another will call it a rasp riffler. How to know, how to know. Well, the majority of merchants appear to agree that a rasp is a very coarse, straight file. The tool itself may be thick and rectangular like a sharpening file but don't be surprised to find those that are slender with a curving head, looking just like a riffler.
Rifflers, on the other hand, are usually slender with a curved head. Many times these curved heads can be found on both ends of the riffler. You can even find kits that offer you different shaped heads and at different sizes.
æ Mallets. These little hammers are invaluable in the right circumstance. They are a must for chip carving, relief carving and intaglio carving. (What am I saying?) Mallets are a must for all wood carving. You may need just a few millimeters off of here and no more, maybe add a little notch there, an indent over here, maybe create a shadow. It really is such a valuable tool.
æ Power tools. There are some pretty nice power tools for wood carving. There are power drills, rotor saw burrs, power chisels and mini grinders. You can even find power carving kits. There's even a wood carver's kit that offers its own selection of power grinders.
These tools are quite extraordinary in how much time and labor they can save wood carvers. Many consider them only for life-size or extremely large carvings. It's all up to the carver. Hey, how about a carving created entirely by power tools? (... Wonder how big that'd be.)
Tools for Sanding and Smoothing. When all the wood carving and shaping is done, you'll want to sand and smooth all surfaces. This is an important step that precedes any painting or varnishing. In doing so, you'll remove any remains from any previous finishing process and you'll also prepare the wood to bond with any non-penetrating chemicals. Sanding can be done using sand paper, sanding clothes or sanding sticks.
æ Sanding is often accomplished using sand paper. There are many grades, from very, very coarse to very, very fine. There's quite a selection. Something very similar to this is the defuzzing pad. It does as it sounds. It removes all fuzz still clinging to the wood surface.
æ There are sanding clothes that come in a roll and are available in varying grit sizes. Sections may be cut from the roll and rolled or folded as you wish. Best thing is, you don't have to worry about it cracking or falling apart on you.
æ Sanding sticks may also be found in varying grit sizes. You can also find sanding stick kits or sanding detail kits that can remove glue or minute remains of your finishing products. Mini-belt sanding sticks or sanding belts may be used for large sanding jobs.
Wood carving is an amazing craft to develop. You could use just a handful of tools and work with small projects. Or you could use a bunch of tools, including power tools, to work on really large projects. Either way, it's very relaxingScience Articles, oftentimes exhilarating and extremely satisfying. Have fun!


ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Len Q. is a knife sharpening expert and protector of the natural world. If you would like to find out about ª Knife Sharpening: How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them ª Sharpening Other Edges (e.g. Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Chain Saws, Axes) Find it here athttp://www.MakeKnivesSharp.com .

 

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cnc engraver cutting wood bar 旋轉軸雕刻機

 

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wood carving - Engraving in wood

 

 

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Woodworking : How to Engrave Letters Into Wood

In order to engrave letters into wood, a woodworker will need a very small router with a 1/4 inch routing footing bit. Find out how to do free-hand routing to engrave letters into wood with help from a woodworker and antique restorer in this free video on woodworking.

Expert: Curtis Martin
Contact: www.martin-antique-restorations.com
Bio: Curtis Martin is a third-generation woodworker and antiques restorer.

Filmmaker: Reel Media LLC


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How To Using a Dremel Tool - wood carving

The scroll saw attachment to a Dremel tool can be used to cut random shapes into a variety of materials. Be sure to wear eye protection when using this high-speed rotary tool with tips from a professional carpenter in this free video on Dremel tools.

Expert: Stephen G. Anthony
Bio: Stephen G. Anthony is a professional carpenter, woodworker and handyman based in New York City and south Florida.
Filmmaker: Paul Muller  

 

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some of wood carving tooles the must use

 

Basic Wood Carving Tools are great for beginners and value conscience wood carvers